. He, unlike me, does not need a bath.The air still feels heavy, even though the sun is starting its slow trek towards settling down for the day. It has been muggy, hot, humid, and downright disgusting all day and the four of us meeting on the veranda of the guesthouse keep guzzling water, sopping it up with napkins as it comes out our skin. I haven’t used the restroom once today but I have had at least five liters of water. I feel sticky but I also feel happy knowing that it was a profitable day of reconnecting with staff, welcoming a new man onboard and planning for the year.

They have just left and I go about cleaning up the lunch leftovers, taking them on a large plate to the guard who smiles so, so widely, grateful for the feast before him. He introduces me to his granddaughter, maybe 3 years old. She extends her hand in welcome, moving towards me in a frilly white dress, somehow still white in this heat and dust.

I sit, looking out and a small movement makes me look up to spy one of the many lizards I have seen today.